Lowering from above with grigri ). Yell “Lowering!” Let the rope slowly feed through the belay device, lowering the climber. Sep 21, 2023 · After months of testing, our avid rock climber and resident expert found the best climbing belay devices of 2023. For many reasons. Carefully read the Instructions for Use used in this technical advice before consulting the advice itself. You get used to lowering with the grigri, but it is counter-intuitive at first to control the speed entirely with the lever - squeezing with your hand to slow down your climber can give you rope burn. Lower down the opposite side of the rope. #belay # The Petzl GriGri is an assisted-braking belay device. 5mm Mar 17, 2022 · The basics behind the Petzl GriGri, one of climbing's most popular belay devices. Dec 30, 2019 · When top rope belaying with a Grigri or similar auto locking belay device, you may find you need extra friction when lowering. It's basically required except in perfectly smooth lowering situations such as overhung lead walls in a gym. See above (or the Petzl documentation) for instructions on overriding anti panic. Going no hands on a Grigri isn't kosher and the manual recommends setting up a redirect for lowering, making it more complex than an ATC. Lock the carabiner. . While this is an option regardless of whether or not the climber can unweight, we personally hate lowering from the top with a Gri. From knotting the ends of your rope to rigging a backup to lower your follower, we break down the key principles of lowering in rock climbing rope systems. You will either lower or abseil to get down from most sport routes. However, if you were to do this while belaying from Jul 25, 2023 · Belaying with a Grigri from the above is particularly advantageous if you plan to lower the climber after they reach the top. As long as the brake end is re-directed above the device, then lowering somebody while at the belay station is no different than lowering somebody while being on the ground with a gri gri. Lowering with a Grigri from the top is significantly less convoluted than lowering with a tube-style device in guide mode. One lowering, one rappelling. 99K views, 291 likes, 12 loves, 32 comments, 59 shares, Facebook Watch Videos from Outdoor Research: Learn how to belay or lower your climber from above You also describe self lowering - not rappeling on a grigri. The extra safety that Grigri provides wh Jun 20, 2021 · How to perform a direct belay on bolted anchors at the top of a climb or pitch using a quad anchor rigging system and a Petzl GriGri. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or p Oct 1, 2020 · This makes the device work much better when belaying the follower from above on multipitch -- it basically doesn't backfeed, even with skinny ropes, making it feel much more secure without adding friction. One crafty way to do this is to redirect the brake strand through a second locking carabiner clipped to your belay loop If you’ve wondered what grigri is, we’ve got you covered. The belayer takes up slack and holds the brake side of the rope. But before learning about each method, let’s This video shows how to belay and lower from the top using a grigri when rock climbing. This is a quick tip, I've talked about this in Dec 6, 2018 · To lower, first have the climber lean back and engage the Grigri’s braking mechanism. This is a review of tools/techniques for lowering a climber from the top of a, top managed top-rope climb. Oct 15, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. com Sep 13, 2018 · Once I want to lower my climber back down to the ground, using an assisted braking device like the gri gri, it's mandatory that I redirect that brake strand so I can keep the brake strand in the braking plane as I open the camming unit on that assisted braking device. The safety traits of the GRIGRI help stop accidents and lower their all-around insurance fees. If I am out with a grigri I use this method. Lowering is so much safer, giving slack is much easier, and taking in slack takes much less effort. If you need to lower a person from an anchor: Install the rope in the GRIGRI, making sure to place it in the device in the right direction. It feeds slack with ease, securely catches lead falls, and securely auto-blocks when belaying a follower from above on multi-pitch routes. The person being lowered puts their weight on the rope and disconnects from the anchor. Even people who have safely used the GriGri since last century have occasionally gone into “GriGri Lock”, grabbing the cam open in a surprise fall. POV grigri rappel set up and descend. He said, “The V groove straightened out the rope while lowering and rappelling,” with less kinking than a Grigri. You can somewhat control the rate by right hand position but also with how much you are pulling the lever back. Jun 21, 2023 · Whether lowering a climber off their first sport route, lowering your follower in a multi-pitch scenario, or rappelling of a route, it's imperative you know the safety tips and tricks that keep us safe when lowering in rock climbing. 3,649 likes, 32 comments - practibolts on November 24, 2022: "Belaying and Lowering with a GriGri from above. This technique is a bit less common, and it has a few pros and cons, see below. Aug 22, 2021 · Can GriGri belay from above? The GRIGRI can be used to to belay on multipitch routes. Aug 22, 2021 · Which GriGri is best? Petzl GriGri 2 is best if you want to buy a GriGri at a discounted price (since they’re going out of stock) and don’t need the wider rope range or don’t mind the traditional lowering of the GriGri handle (minimal progression). I don't really want to lug a Grigri on multipitches so I leave it on the ground (or at home). While belaying client(s) from above, the instructor will perform assistance skills, including the 3:1 haul, 3:1+1 assisted haul, and coaching/vector pull. Jan 28, 2019 · Just a quick note here: lowering with the GriGri in "guide mode" might not be as trivial as just opening the lever. The AMGA recommends redirecting the brake strand above the GriGri to provide further brake strand friction. This tutorial is packed with useful tips and advice, aiming at increasing the Nov 22, 2021 · How do you belay with a grigri from above? How do you reduce belaying? Lowering a Climber Bring your guide hand under your brake hand. Jun 23, 2024 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Happy Thanksgiving #practibolts #rockclimbing #climbing #sportclimbing #tradclimbing #multipitch #multipitchclimbing" Oct 15, 2017 · Aidan Raviv · Apr 6, 2018 · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 95 T Roper wrote: It only lets you lower someone at about 1/2 speed, after you get used to it you can finesse it into lowering faster but never as fast as the originals let you. I'm incredibly surprised this has only been mentioned once so far, but if you find yourself lowering on top belay often, use a grigri. How can you safely lower a climber from the top of a pitch? What rope management techniques should you use to ensure the lower pays-out well? Learn two simple methods for lowering a climber using Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Belaying with the GRIGRI The belay technique to be used is very similar to the generic belay technique, but has a few specifics. For a climber who is already familiar with using classic devices, it takes a little time to adjust. Learn how to belay or lower your climber from above using a Grigri, with instruction from the American Mountain Guides Association. 5mm, keeping pace with the skinniest single rope on the market. 171 likes, 0 comments - climbseneca on March 12, 2019: " Tech Tip Tuesday - Lowering Methods // Lowering with a GriGri - Belaying from above with a GriGri and lowering your climber? This is another lowering method that revolves around a simple redirect. Equipment Used: Petzl G Mar 17, 2014 · The GRIGRI is a belay device with assisted braking. Any variation in lowering force (climber bouncing, going over edges, etc. The lever can help with the lowering, but the brake hand primarily controls the speed of the descent as the rope feeds through the grigri. The key here is to redirect the break strand. Guides, this paragraph is for you (and for anyone else doing all of the leading on multipitch climbs and belaying off the anchors from above). In terms of what you can do stop this (assuming you want to use an auto locking belay plate), make sure your grigri technique is up to scratch, be attentative when you're lowering someone and perhaps look at a device like the edelrid eddy that has an anti-panic feature. This could be due to lowering a heavy partner, skinny rope, slippery rope sheath, wet/icy rope, cold hands, gloves, or some combination of the above. It is meant to be an overview and general resource. Maintain a steady pace, adjusting speed if the climber requests it. This technique offers real advantages in terms of safety: - the rule to never let go of the I haven't heard of grigri not locking this way never, though. Everything you need to know about Belaying Correctly with the Grigri, my favourite Belaying Device for Sport Climbing. This article explains how to use guide mode for climbing + how to lower a climber in guide mode. I get wanting to take up the minimal amount of equipment, but really, the grigri or equivalent is superior for multipitch belaying. May 13, 2025 · This Petzl GriGri review is for all the climbers around the world looking for an assisted braking belay device and have not yet tried the GriGri. Recently my climbing buddy and I tried to practise ATC lowering from above but all techniques require some for of bodyweight/pulling to flip the ATC/seperate the loadstrand. Includes belaying, lowering, a 3 to 1 pulley system for belay assists, rope management, and how Mar 25, 2019 · 3 - Redirected Grigri The redirected Grigri works on a similar principle to the redirected plate. Seconded! TR mode is nice for bringing up followers. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Finish by progressively pulling back the handle until the appropriate speed is reached. Jun 5, 2025 · Pull the release handle and feed the rope through the grigri to lower a climber. Dec 15, 2021 · Exactly how to belay from above with a grigri, atc, mega jul, cordelette anchors and more. Due to the popularity of climbing gyms, most climbers have knowledge of a GRIGRI and are aware of how it works. All you need to get mult-pitching! Learn how to belay or lower your climber from above using a Grigri, with instruction from the American Mountain Guides Association. - 類 Clip a carabiner (locking or non-locking) above the device, into the shelf or an offset/separate master point and use it to redirect the How to Belay with a Grigri is one of the most important skills you should learn for climbing, even top-rope climbing. Still, belaying yourself out to the edge with a Munter and tying a BFK uses half the amount of rope and only one belay device. You never see anybody backing up a gri gri even though you could hold the lever open and allow a climber to deck. The first thing you want to do when lowering a climber with a petzl grigri is to put a twist in the rope so that it's oriented over this beveled section of the belay device. AMGA Certified Rock Instructor Erik Kramer-Webb shares his top tips on top-belaying with a GriGri. Pass the climber side of the rope through a directional carabiner, placed above the belay anchor. This must be placed above the carabiner connecting the GRIGRI to the anchor. 😄 Pick up your Practi Bolts fro@ the link in my bio and practice your skills. Attached to the harness, this ‘guide tube’ belay device can be also used to belay from the ground or rappel from above like any other tube device, which makes it one of the more versatile pieces of kit climbers can carry Dec 13, 2023 · The ATC takes a secondary set of skills to lower someone [while belaying] from a long distance from above. Plus lowering directly from the anchor feels more controlled (and likely still a bad idea). Trango cinch otoh does have correct angle for it to lock reliably. The device can be used with a wide range of rope diameters, from 8. How does it stack up to the Grigri? We put it to the test. How to belay from the top | and lowering - simple techniques using a grigri How to use a climbing belay device in guide mode including lowering, Black Diamond ATC / DMM Pivot When lowering with a grigri you do let the rope slide through your right hand. a Grigri) and steel, V-shaped rope groove (as opposed to the way the Grigri twists the brake strand over a rounded lip). The Pilot automatically locks when weighted by the climber above you, so with lowering you put your hand on the device and push it down, and the Pilot does the work of lowering for you, not your brake hand. Setting Up a GRIGRI, Belaying and Lowering from the Top https://rockclimb. Lowering a client or partner with a grigri from above requires directing the brake strand over the braking plate of the grigri and redirecting the strand back towards the direction of load. Mar 29, 2019 · With the rope through the anchor, tie in to one end of the rope, attach to the other side of the rope with your Grigri, and lower yourself. Mar 19, 2024 · Unanchored and with the Grigri clipped directly to his harness, Riley began lowering his friend down the Robbins Crack side of the boulder. This content is intended for informational and educational purposes only and is NOT a substitute for professional instruction under the supervision of a qual Install the rope in the GRIGRI, making sure to place it in the device in the right direction. Connect the GRIGRI to the anchor with a locking carabiner. video ---------- Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the program is designed to Oct 7, 2023 · A common practice is to belay a follower from above by connecting a grigri to the anchor and pulling down on the brake strand to take up slack. Then, redirect the brake stand into another carabiner (non-locking is fine) ensuring it runs over the smooth flange. In case you were wondering, Petzl likely designed a method of defeating the anti-panic mode into the new GriGri to account for very light climbers. Didn't see that. Nor do you care about the extra safety features the GriGri + offers. If I belay from above I use cinch for single rope situations and bd atc xp guide for double ropes or two followers. Feb 14, 2025 · Clip two: Lowering with a Grigri from a top belay. Keep both hands on the rope. Connect the GRIGRI to the harness with a locking carabiner. We failed to do this, trying multiple techniques, as we could't generate enough pulling power sitting down next to the masterpoint. I feel that it is less physically taxing to take up slack through grigri/cinch than atc guide. The technique described here is the only one that Petzl recommends. Mar 2, 2021 · Top-Roping: Belaying, Giving Slack and Lowering with a GRIGRI https://rockclimb. Is an ATC better than a Grigri? We break down the differences between the types of belay devices and share our favorites for different types of climbing. To save some of the furious fingers that may start sending emails and criticisms towards me please read the following. There are basically three ways to descend; walk off, lower or abseil (rappel). Apr 18, 2020 · Learn how to belay and lower using the Petzl Grigri from the top of a climb. So without such a defeat mechanism it could be a difficult and frustrating lower. Then for the actual lowering one hand is busy with the machard instead of properly getting the brake strand. 1) it’s physically hard and awkward 2) you must stay close to the anchor as opposed to the LSD which would allow you to extend out to see your Dec 22, 2022 · In addition, most climbers would agree that it’s easier to give slack or lower a climber while belaying from above with a Grigri than an ATC. The anti panic helped save me from what could have been a pretty nasty fall on the lower. I will make some personal Oct 4, 2024 · A GriGri needs a well stacked rope to feed smoothly, so organise the rope before the leader sets off, particularly on hanging belays—a long hanging rope makes feeding the rope very tricky. 3 Methods Of Belaying From Above There are 3 methods of belaying from the top. Jan 22, 2025 · Anthony’s theory is that the added resistance comes from the Pinch’s visibly smaller rope channel (vs. When belaying on vertical or slightly overhanging terrain, there is virtually no difference between the Grigri + and previous models when lowering the climber other than the smoother action and control mentioned above. “ The GriGri cinches down tight, making it easy to belay my partner when they're hanging all over their project, ” one tester said. Finally and probably the most dangerous is that the knot can get jammed into the device defeating both the device and the third hand. Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl GriGri is an active assisted-braking device that performs well in every belaying and lowering task, earning our highest honor as the best belay device on the market. Feb 15, 2024 · Tube Devices with Guide Mode Guides and multi-pitch climbers are the main users of this feature and they tend to prefer to carry a tube style device with guide mode. Use the hand that you aren’t using to hold the braking side of the rope to pull back on the grigri’s quick release handle until you feel resistance. Two ways to descend with the Grigri. May 20, 2014 · 3:1 Raising System One reason to belay from above, or direct belay, with an assisted-braking belay device (such as the Grigri) is that it is easily converted to a 3:1 raising system (aka the Z system) in a matter of seconds. The rope began feeding rapidly through the Grigri. Apr 5, 2024 · How to Belay and Lower from Above with a Grigri Climbing Bros 482 subscribers Subscribed Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. In this post, we go over how to belay with a grigri and use it to self belay yourself. Add a directional carabiner. See full list on publiclands. An extra HMS biner is quite sufficient as a backup device, lighter and more versatile. May 5, 2025 · The lowering lever now has a bit more resistance, making it slightly harder to open fully. This isn’t meant to be a comprehensive list of lowers and all of their intricacies. Totally wrong. It's an ideal device for belaying both leaders and top-ropers, either sport or May 17, 2020 · Get more from Ryan Tilley Climbing and Adventures on Patreon The GRIGRI is a belay device with assisted braking. Failure to do so would result in an uncontrolled lower similar to that described above. GRIGRI, GRIGRI + and NEOX can be used for belaying the second from the belay station on multi-pitch routes. ” Both devices are capable of accommodating high-risk situations, but the GriGri is more likely to switch between uses at a faster rate, which can be essential in extreme or life-or-death situations. ) will move the rope and pull on the GriGri causing the relative position of the GriGri body to your hand gripping the cam lever to change. For most guides and climbing instructors, the direct belay is always the first choice, provided the anchor is solid, because it allows the belayer to prepare for any Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl GriGri+ is the best active assisted-braking belay device for newer climbers and feels very familiar to anybody who has used a GriGri before. Oct 24, 2023 · As with the Grigri, it takes time to learn how to lower someone smoothly or to rappel using the Vergo without jerky bounces. more. I prefer the Grigri as it has an assisted-breaking device, which means that if something happens to me such as being knocked unconscious, the device will lock me in place and prevent me from falling to the ground (See gear section above). The GriGri is locked off with an overhand knot , so whether or not the ATC interferes with the GriGri cam is actually irrelevant. ---------- Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the program is designed to Jun 28, 2018 · During our field test, we used the Grigri + on a variety of terrains, from slab and vertical climbing to steep overhanging caves. Best of all, this device now accommodates ropes down to 8. Feb 9, 2020 · Lowering a climber from the top with a grigri is similar to using an ATC, but you have to fully open the grigri lever, while keeping the brake hand in brake position. Rappeling on a grigri would be to clove hitch a biner so it blocks the anchor at the middle. Aug 14, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Both are valid. You can control the climber's descent very easily. All you have to do is redirect the brake strand and pull the lever. The handle has to be pulled back quite to lower them which may trigger the anti-panic mode, especially on thick ropes. Rarely does the cam on the grigri get blocked on a typical multipitch stance, but it is a failure mode to watch out for. This is applicable in single pitch and multipitch scenarios. If I am out with an atc I use the usual method. Good point. It offers several features that many will see as improvements over the standard GriGri, including an anti-panic handle and two different modes for top-rope and lead belaying. The brake strand must be redirected through some higher component of the anchor to provide adequate lowering friction. The technique described here is the only one that Petzl Jul 29, 2024 · Petzl's new Neox is a sleek assisted-braking belay device. Guide Mode is an auto-locking belay technique for climbing. Comment below with important safety tips when using this method. So it requires a little time to adapt to. After the client(s) have completed the climb, the instructor will lower client with a munter hitch or GriGri, or convert the system to a releasable (belayed) rappel. May 17, 2020 · I see a lot of people lowering with a grigri in improper or dangerous ways, this is how the AMGA recommends to lower with a grigri. When intentionally trying to lower your second or give slack, you will first need to redirect the brake strand back through a high point on the anchor. Direct belay – this is the recommended method by climbing schools today Redirected belay – this is the method used for many years and is still common today Indirect belay These 3 methods differ in how the belay devices are being set up and how the belaying is done. My only complaint is paying out slack can be tricky at first for some, I had a second outing where I was teaching my uncle to use it but he hadn't used a grigri before. The Grigri is an assisted braking belay device. I want to reiterate the utility of the immediate clinching function of the Vergo. Follow these step by step instructions on how to belay with a GriGri, including giving slack quickly. To lower the person, the belayer pulls the handle while holding the brake side of the rope. Pull the side with the biner. The belay technique is very close to the generic technique, but has a few specifics. Aug 22, 2021 · Can you belay from above with a GRIGRI? The GRIGRI can be used to to belay on multipitch routes. lmne eig fyd wasy nfnnl vuuiwog lukm egvqx ixrn sfbvjqgo ude wgwagr gfin wwlj ocdg