How to tie a quad anchor with a sling. Adding multiple knots does not .
How to tie a quad anchor with a sling Detailed tips on where Some people think this is called the quad anchor because it uses a “quad” length sling, or 240 cm. However, you must equalize it in a way which meets the following criteria: I tie an overhand in the middle of a sling so I can use the end of the sling as an anchor while I set up my rappel off the middle of the sling. Dec 12, 2017 · I’m old-school. Jun 7, 2024 · The quad anchor rig offers fast set up, great strength, good load distribution and complete redundancy, all in a light, compact package. Oct 8, 2015 · Learn why, when alpine climbing, it is crucial to reinforce and thoroughly test a top-rope anchor to prevent fatal falls. We built a full anchor and broke it, over and over again on our Bolt Buster concrete slab and then again on our slack snap machine. Just use a sling or two, or a quad, or a cordelette, or an equalette, or a couple sliding X'swhatever floats yer boat. But using your rope or PAS as the anchor is NG if you're leading in blocks, or worried about escaping the belay in a crisis. What are they? Dec 18, 2014 · With ropes, belay devices, cordelette, and slings crowding the anchor, it’s easy for this important setup to become an overcomplicated rat’s nest. a simple way to create a PAS with a dbl. Keeping a loop sling, carabiner and a DMM Pinto Rig on my harness eliminates the need for a big bulky harness when we Here is the most common knot in climbing. Clip one sling to each hanging carabiner. Banshee belays aren’t the standard in the United States, but they are popular in other parts of the world. 240 cm is the biggest standard sewn sling size and is the perfect amount of material for a quad. Conveniently sized 2" and 3" alloy steel O-rings provide simple pass-through choke-on Feb 23, 2024 · Also known as endless loops, loop slings are normally made from nylon material, are compact, lightweight, and can handle some weight for their size! This style sling can be used for climbing redirects, rigging redirects, or as a light-to-mediumish sized rigging anchor point. Clip the sling into two bolts. When a climber falls, having a solid top rope anchor is literally a matter of life and death. The closer to the central point you tie them, the less the anchor will extend if one piece fails. Wrap the sling/cord around the tree, match the ends, and tie a figure eight on a bight to create a master point. Make sure to double up the slings or cordelettes which extend the anchor over the edge. more Oct 24, 2018 · Many climbers consider the cordelette a standard piece of gear, as it lets you quickly connect two or more points of protection into a redundant, non-extending, and fairly well distributed anchor. Below: Quad anchor tied with overhand knots in Dyneema webbing (photo and anchor by Dale Remsberg, a n IFMGA Certified Guide and Technical Director of the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA). Lots of climbers ask me: "How can i build a top rope anchor?". The quad is easy to set up, versatile and strong. Sling-To-Load Angle: The Sling-to-Load Angle is the angle formed between a horizontal line and the sling leg or body. The Sling-to-Load Angle has a dramatic effect on sling Work Load Limits. In this episode of Explore and Traverse, Mike goes over how to build a Dyneema sling anchor and some of the pros and cons of this system. Put them together, tie two bight knots, and you’re good to go. Learn how to use the self-equalizing 'quad anchor' for climbing Dec 7, 2023 · If you have a 240 cm length sling, it can be annoyingly long to use on a two bolt anchor, especially rigged as a quad. com today for the FallTech 7428 Cable Pass-Through Sling Anchor with Vinyl Coated Galvanized Steel Cable and see our entire selection of Multi-Application Anchorages and Fall Protection products. As with the choker hitch, more than one sling may be necessary to help ensure load control. This quick tip goes over how to build a "quad" climbing anchor. Perfect for alpine climbing adventures. But for side by side bolts like this, many people find it’s too long, a bit bulky, and hard to rack. Learn what top rope climbing is and how to set up and clean a versatile top-rope anchor: the quad. I don't know why people are feeding you a bunch of ridiculous information in this thread. Jan 16, 2025 · Or you could edit your pretied quad from a triple to a double and use the double as an anchor sling on the way up and a rappel extender/tether on the way down. You’ll need: Two nylon or Dyneema slings of equal length Four locking carabiners The setup: Clip locking carabiners to each anchor point. There are many ways to set up a top … Apr 7, 2021 · The quad anchor, typically tied with a 180 cm Dyneema sling, is an increasingly popular choice for bolted anchors or ice climbing. To set up a top rope you will need: Four screwgate carabiners and a cordelette/ long sling. Whether you're top-rope climbing or lead climbing, knowing how to build a solid anchor is absolutely critical to staying secure. Here's yet another way to tie a quad anchor with a quad sling, I think I'm up to three different videos on my channel about how to do this one thing. Using a "quad runner" - or a 240cm sling - you can build a self-equalizing anchor that is AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) Instructor Angela Hawse explains how to build an anchor with two slings and three pieces. In this episode, Mike goes over how to use a quad anchor, setting up a top down belay, top roping with a quad, and the nuances of clipping into the anchor. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. But, no need to criticize others if they choose to tie knots in Dyneema. Feb 22, 2020 · Learn how to build a multi-pitch anchor. These are often called “double length” slings as they are twice as long as your standard “shoulder length” sling. Using a "quad runner" - or a 240cm sling - you can build a self-equalizing anchor that is great for meandering routes or meandering climbers. ) In the photo, notice we have a figure 8 on a bight rather than an overhand knot. Now you have a two-stranded loop at either end, with four strands of material between the overhand knots. Learn how to make Quad You can damage internal organs with just a 10kN force - falling onto a sling directly is likely to be much higher than this. And yes, you can tie knots in it in and no it won't break (for any normal anchor building application). Then consider only taking one belay device. Tip: Try to tie the bar tack sewing in one of the two loops (above, it's in the left. The Quad is an anchor system which self-adjusts to keep an equal force on each anchor point. ” The shelf is a secondary point (the first being the master point) you can use to clip into directly. Nov 22, 2021 · How do you make an anchor around a tree? Tree Anchor Use a double-length sling or cordelette to create an anchor around a solid tree that’s at least five inches in diameter, firmly rooted in the ground, and alive. Feb 20, 2020 · Having said that, if you don't like it, then don't do it. This gives you two clipping points at two different levels, which can be helpful in certain situations. So buying a cordelette to build a quad is kind of like saying you're getting a boat with snow tires. By tying load limiter knots into the quad, at least 2 parts of the sling would need to simultaneously fail for the anchor to fail. Also, try to make your anchor efficient and Nov 21, 2018 · This is a quick tip in order to fully utilize your space at the belay station and to make your day run a bit more efficiently weather your single pitch climbing or multi pitch. Unclip the sling from one piece and tie an overhand knot near to the central point. This produces four strands in between the knots. (If you want a tether, take another 120 cm sling, girth hitch it to your harness, and clip that into the anchor. I clip in with draws when cleaning a sport anchor, I don’t wear a helmet when I’m sport climbing, and I use just the rope with a clove hitch to tie myself into the anchor when I get to the belay of a multi-pitch climb. The quad anchor rig offers fast set up, great strength, good load distribution and complete redundancy, all in a light, compact. Learn how to build a quad anchor, along with some of its primary uses. What are some advantages? Fairly inexpensive (especially compared to a 240 cm Dyneema sling, which some climbers prefer over a standard cordelette) You can cut it up and leave it for rappel anchors The simple overhand isn't likely to unroll on a standard quad anchor, or a 3 piece equalized trad anchor, assuming everything is dressed properly. Quad anchors are mainly used for sport climbing or trad climbing where the Oct 29, 2023 · i’ve heard cordelette is more versatile & cheaper, but is it stronger as a quad anchor? does it last longer? 6mm or 7mm? 8mm???? for a sling, i’ve heard that for a quad you need 240cm of it. When using overhands, I tie my quads with a 180cm sling. Maybe gotta sling a couple boulders and build into an anchor, or sling one really big Boulder, or maybe there’s just a tree! If I’m on bolts I generally will not do the sliding-x but rather tie a know to have a solid master point. The “quad” anchor has certain characteristics that many climbers value, but traditional ways of building that anchor rely on having only a two-piece anchor. are they both equally as strong? Mike shows how to build a quad anchor with 7mm cordelette. A webbing loop sling is attached to two anchor points and the strands of the loop are crossed at the carabiner clip in point. Learn how to set up a quad anchor with just a pair of 120 cm slings, a great alternative when you don't have a 180 cm doubled sling or bulky cordelette. Left your cordalette at the belay? Jul 15, 2020 · The most common of these methods is arguably the Sliding-X anchor. Quads without knots violates the "redundancy" priciniple of SERENE anchors If you built a quad anchor without knots, and any part of the single was cut, the entire anchor would fail. R = Redundant = Use two pieces of equal-sized webbing, attach to two locking carabiners (one in each) bolt plates, use two carabiners at the bottom of the anchor (where the rope passes through). Slings, runners, cord, cordelettes and webbing are all climbing essentials. Detailed Class on Slings, Lanyards & Personal Anchors (PAS). The knot weakens the sling by at least half, bringing a (e. If you have a 240 cm length sling, it can be annoyingly long to use on a two bolt anchor, especially rigged as a quad. ) 14kN sling down to 7 or less. Using a "quad runner" - or a 240cm sling - you can build a self-equalizing anchor that is. Even if it does Some people think this is called the quad anchor because it uses a “quad” length sling, or 240 cm. Dec 16, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Here's a variation, the offset quad. I think I like quad anchors now! Special surprise 103KN test at Aug 16, 2021 · First time multi-pitching? Not sure how to build an anchor? Check out this ultimate guide to get you started in the right direction! Learn how to set up a top rope anchor on two bolts with instruction from the American Mountain Guides Association We built a full quad anchor out of 6mm accessory cord that is only 6kn strong and we're getting 32kn. This is known as an extension-limiting knot. A quadruple length sling (240cm) is the most often-used material for this configuration, but a 180cm sling (triple length) or cordelette can also be used. The Double Sling You can also set up a top rope anchor with two slings, which can be faster and easier than using a cordelette, though it’s a little harder to equalize if the bolts are staggered. May 31, 2021 · To make this anchor, fold a quad length (240cm) pre-sewn sling in half and tie both strands in an overhand knot about 6 inches from each doubled end. Using a "quad runner" - or a 240cm sling - you can build a self-equalizing anchor that is gre How to Tie the Overhand Knot Step 1 Clip the sling to both bolts and pull the strands down so they are equal. I will show you how to set up a simple yet tough and awesome top rope anchor. 4 things to consider: Is your anchor - Strong, Solid, Secure and Redundant. Equalizing anchors is important because. Be sure to clip into TWO bolts or an anchor configuration that is full strength. We share some tips on gear placement, rope management and general safety. Sep 27, 2019 · Here's an unconventional approach to anchor building - tie a girth hitch at the master point. but then ive read some people saying that’s way too long & they use a 180cm fine to build a quad anchor. The example below are common in the rope rigging Oct 9, 2023 · Had an interesting conversation about knots in slings at the Petzl Institute WAH course. You can leave your quad rigged for a long day out. Step 4 Clip the sling back into the piece. To construct, double the sling then tie an overhand knot about 10-15cm from each end to clip to the bolts. The sliding-x is a self-equalizing anchor which distributes the load equally between the anchor pieces. Angela Hawse, Co-Owner Chicks Climbing and Skiing, demonstrates why a quad anchor is so quick and easy, self-equalizing and redundant. How to rig a quad. Make a single master point from a sling and two carabiners, tie a bight knot, and clip the rope to it Clove hitch to one bolt, tie a bight knot to the other bolt You could use more exotic flavors of the bowline to make it easier to untie. -- Mar 15, 2022 · Use a long cordelette or sling to create a fast, safe, and easy self-equalizing quad anchor Oct 10, 2023 · To tie this anchor, we start with a sling clipped between our two bolts as before, except instead of tying one knot on a bight in the middle, we remove one of the legs and tie two knots in-line along the length of the sling, both positioned near the middle of the sling. Jun 30, 2023 · Climbing anchors, whether in trad or sport scenarios, are life or death. When I’m rappelling off a route, I’ll use a couple of shoulder slings to tether myself in at each anchor. Tie it with a bowline on a bight. By applying a lateral force to the clip in point you can see the system tracking back and forth while maintaining some tension in both anchor legs. shoulder length sling. If there is any chance that you will move sideways or above the anchor, make sure to attach to it with the rope. The Quad Anchor is my personal favorite rock climbing anchor! It is self-equalizing, easy to tie, can be tied ahead-of-time, and is very strong. 1️⃣ climber clips into the anchor with some type of tether or “PAS” here Megas is using a “quad” girth hitched through the two tie-in points on the harness. In this video, we show you how to build a top-rope anchor using the quad. Setting up a secure top rope anchor is vital. We dive into the key principles of anchoring for rock climbing, and debunk some of the myths and focuses that some climbers cling to without understand the true reality of climbing anchors. Learn how to choose the type you need. For a multi pitch, after you build a proper anchor, you can use the bottom carabiner on the quickdraw as a place to hold your backpack, or maybe a sling with extra gear. It's self equalizing, provides separate clip-in points and you don't have to break it down for Jan 1, 2015 · A fast and simple anchor that is equalized and redundant. g. . It could also break the sling, or the anchor. Jun 25, 2025 · Here is one way to do so using a 240cm Mammut Contact Sling tied in a “Quad” configuration. ) Double length sewn runner girth hitched through the harness tie in points, overhand knot tied for rappel carabiner and device, locker clipped to end. Tie an overhand knot 4–7 inches from each end. Do a follow-through to tie the rope to your harness. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. How to make simple but effective personal tethers for attaching your harness to a belay or rappel anchor when climbing. The easiest way to equalize a trad anchor is by using a sling or a cordelette. This simple setup meets SERENE, can change directionality, arms can be used to personally anchor into, can hold 2 tie-in points with AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) Instructor Jeff Ward explains how to build a quad anchor. Be sure to keep the bar tack out of the way, high up near the bolt/carabiner. Clip the doubled ends into your protection carabiners. Tie off knots create different length for clip ins works similar as a commercially sold PAS The quad is an awesome load distributive anchor. A 240 cm sling can be handy for many kinds of anchor building, especially for equalizing three points of protection, orslinging around a tree. Nov 2, 2017 · Building a Mini-Quad To build a Mini-Quad start with a 120 cm Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner. Here is a clever way to rig it so your master point is high, and it's very easy to untie after loading: tie it with a bowline on a bight. There’s tons of videos out there and it’s worth it to watch those and practice them at home! Dec 7, 2023 · Quad with BOBs This anchor is tied with a 240cm sling. Jun 2, 2024 · Super strong, redundant everywhere, but no built in tether. Adding multiple knots does not Feb 2, 2025 · And after the top section of the sling has been grasped and twisted halfway, a locking carabiner should be clipped into the twist and around the lower portion of the sling. I'm sure there are some crazy people who take some sick pride in cloving into single pitch sport anchors and doing something weird to set up to clean, but generally you'll want a PAS/Sling/Draws/something not rope for that. E = Efficient = The sliding-x anchor is quick to build. Jul 7, 2016 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. How to safely build top rope anchors for rock climbing on bolts. An old piece of carpet, foam pads or garden hose pipes (without metal lining) make good padding. Visit FallTech. Learn how to set up a top rope when sport climbing. The sling cradles the load while both eyes are attached overhead. Keep your belay orderly with this effortless technique: using the “shelf. This has two main advantages over the standard overhand knot. This is specifically for climbing outside when there is a pair of bolts which are accessible by walking up to the top of the climb. There are many important considerations when building an anchor, but the Oct 15, 2021 · The quad anchor is a rock climbing system that evenly distributes weight between multiple anchors, allowing climbers to easily move from pitch to pitch. Since I already have them on hand, they’re great for extending far-away anchor pieces, allowing one to better utilize the cord’s length to extend a master point. Yes, the flexibility of two devices is nice. Lock the gates Step 3 Position the central point where you want it. Anchors built with locker draws, a quad built with a sling, and an equalized 120cm runner are demonstrated. How to Set Up a Bolted Top Rope Anchor: I'll go over one method of setting up a top-rope anchor for climbing outside, specifically the Quad Anchor. Tie a figure 8 or figure 9 in the sling to create the Master Point. A climbing anchor is a system made up of individual anchor points that are linked together to create a master point that the rope and/or climbers clip into to be securely attached to the rock. Jun 3, 2021 · This quick tip goes over how to build a "quad" climbing anchor. Pull the two loops downward between the bolts and in the intended direction of pull (direction of the climber). Hard-wearing 1/4" vinyl coated galvanized steel cable tolerates demanding work environments. Tie it with a bight and clip it to the anchor and the rope is fixed and ready to ascend. Double the runner and get the stitching positioned towards the end before tying the first of two over-hand knots. This video shows how to build a quad anchor and all the different details of when to use it and how it can be modified. It certainly depends on your application, but they recommended using a basket hitch with a carabiner over knotting or girth hitching a sewn dyneema or nylon sling whenever possible. You can join two ends together in a bend, called a flemish, but it's rarely done in big walling because EDK or fisherman's knot is used. Learn all about it here. Generally for mutlipitch or just hanging out at an anchor. Learn how to properly Choose & Use them & Avoid Dangers that arise from misusing soft Climbing e Nov 22, 2021 · Use a double-length sling or cordelette to create an anchor around a solid tree that’s at least five inches in diameter, firmly rooted in the ground, and alive. Clip any two strands as a masterpoint. It is also Nov 5, 2025 · I'm using a pre-tied quad made from a 180 cm Dyneema sling, but the anchor could be pretty much anything you like. You can also tether to the rappel anchors with alpine draws. Chart of results is at the end of the video👉 Learn A quad is a different way to rig a multipiece anchor using similar cord/webbing. Whether it's knots, direction of load, redundancy, no extension, or equalization, there is nuance to anchor building. To tie a quad anchor sling, you'll create two overhand knots in a doubled-over sling, isolating a central four-strand section for your master point, which then connects to two independent anchor points. This anchor also works well when anchor bolts are off-set. Jul 12, 2020 · Exploring some options you have with a very uncommon size of sling. * 2, 3 or 4 solid anchor points. Bobby shows his favorite ways to build a top rope anchor on 2 bolts. Quad Anchor Method This is a fantastic choice at the summit of a sports climb where there are two bolts side by side. The American Alpine Institute offers rock climbing programs for people of all skill levels in Washington, Cal May 9, 2025 · the practice of anchoring by tying a clove hitch into the rope I’m attached to and securing it to a locking carabiner on the master point of the anchor. Mar 3, 2025 · Unfurl your sling or cordelette into one giant loop and double it into a smaller, two-stranded loop. more Dec 1, 2020 · Here is a little description of the quad anchor and why I like to just clip two strands. Aug 4, 2021 · What if you want to make a quad anchor and all you have is a pair of 120 cm slings? No problem. Mar 15, 2021 · If you need to tie (aka “fix”) one end of a rope to two solid anchor points, you have many options. rwpseifrjrqgddkdjskunnuqrannxziyufbcupxqhhwbowmxaiohkkcnplcqqhiqxtookuscesplw